MARTIN PAULI

MARTIN PAULI © ANGULAR MOMENTUM & MANU PROPRIA
"15 years ago, I founded Angular Momentum & Manu Propria with the vision to create and manufacture beautiful handmade timepieces, made under inclusion of old technologies and traditional craft with the premise that no single part is made by CNC machines, not depending to suppliers and all working steps from case making to the artwork done with my own hands (manu propria)". - Martin Pauli

Over 35 years ago Martin Pauli started an apprenticeship as a display artist and studied at the school of art & craft in Bern. In these three decades he dedicated himself intensively to various traditional crafts from scientific miniature drawing and pigment paintings over to knife making, jewelry making and metalworking. Soon Martin discovered Japanese art and craft and began studying metal craft, pottery and urushi lacquering.
Digital Time Display by Revolving-Disk-System (Patent CH989688)
In 1998 Martin Pauli founded his watch company. The USP of the first watch collection was the patented Revolving-Disk-System (R.D.S.), featuring a unique time display by revolving hour and minute disks, showing the time digitally.

Verre Églomisé – Miniature Pigment Painting
In 2004 Martin refined a technique of miniature pigment painting on the reverse of a sapphire watch crystal or dial. The technique is based on aqua regia oil and natural pigments and is executed under the microscope at magnifying level 40x.

Digital Time Display "à Souscription"
The main advantage of having a miniature painting on the reverse of the watch crystal with an aperture for digital time display is, that there are no watch hands disturbing the miniature picture. Verre Églomisé timepieces show the time digitally through an aperture, by an hour disk à "Souscription" with hour, quarter hour and 5-minute indexes and optionally with a minute disk. This method is an alternative time reading system without hour and minute hand

Engraving, Repoussé, Uchi-Dashi
All metal works are executed in Martin Pauli's ateliers. He uses many different techniques such as classic Engraving, Repoussé, Chasing and Uchi-Dashi – a distinctly Japanese process that blurs the distinctions between what is commonly known as metal "sinking" and metal "raising".

Urushi Lacquer
The deep, shiny luster of black or dark red lacquerware, often gorgeously decorated with gold and silver or inlaid with mother-of-pearl, is a Japanese hand-craft form that has long fascinated the world. No other application style can match the deep hues and smoothness of Japanese "Urushi" lacquer. Urushi stands as one of the most distinctive forms of Japanese beauty.

Urushi Lacquer
The deep, shiny luster of black or dark red lacquerware, often gorgeously decorated with gold and silver or inlaid with mother-of-pearl, is a Japanese hand-craft form that has long fascinated the world. No other application style can match the deep hues and smoothness of Japanese "Urushi" lacquer. Urushi stands as one of the most distinctive forms of Japanese beauty.

Since a number of years Martin Pauli has been applying this exceptional art and craft not only to watchmaking in his atelier in Switzerland. The applied works enclose a wide range of techniques, among them "Takamaki-e" high relief, "Kawari-Nuri" experimental lacquer and "Tamamushi-Nuri" jewel beetle wing mosaic which have never been introduced before to watchmaking.
Since a number of years Martin Pauli has been applying this exceptional art and craft not only to watchmaking in his atelier in Switzerland. The applied works enclose a wide range of techniques, among them "Takamaki-e" high relief, "Kawari-Nuri" experimental lacquer and "Tamamushi-Nuri" jewel beetle wing mosaic which have never been introduced before to watchmaking.

Watch Case making
All watch parts, cases, crowns, hands, artworks are executed by Martin himself in his atelier in Bern by hand and hand operated machines. A wide range of metals and alloys can be chosen and have been used for case making: All colors of Gold, Platinum, Palladium, Silver, Stainless Steel, Damascus Steel, Iron, Bronze, Brass, German Silver, Shibuichi, Shakudo and Zirconium metal.
Historical Watch Movements
All of Martin Pauli's timepieces are fit with historical New-Old-Stock movements manufactured between 1950 and 1975 in the "golden Era" of watchmaking by companies like FHF (Fabrique d'Horlogerie Fontainemelon) AS (Adolf Schild SA), Unitas SA which have been merged to the ETA SA in the early 1980s during the so called "quartz crisis".

The FHF and AS movements are – although 50 to 70 years old – of excellent quality. Some believe, even better than today's mass produced movements. All movements have never been used before and are completely overworked, decorated and if necessary modified by Martin himself.